Trip: April 2018
Below is our Top 5 Things To Do in La Paz, Bolivia, part of the Just Carrying On – Top 5 Things To Do series. These lists are favorite activities, eats, and drinks from our travels around the world—in no particular order.
After finishing our amazing 3-day tour in the Bolivian Salt Flats we flew from Uyuni to La Paz and spent 4 nights in the fascinating city. It sits in a bowl, surrounded by mountains, and the elevation is an astounding 3,640 meters (11,942 feet). This is higher than Mount Hood, the tallest peak in our home state of Oregon. The international airport, in the aptly named city of El Alto, is even higher at 4,150 meters. The altitude is definitely a factor. We struggled with the typical shortness of breath walking up hills but also with headaches and some fatigue. And this was after nearly a week at altitude in Northern Chile and the salt flats. You can check out altitude.org for some tips on how to handle altitude sickness, if you experience it.
1. UMAWI
We heard a lot about the food and beverage scene before arriving in La Paz and were particularly intrigued by all the talk of vegan food. We made our way to this hip vegan cafe/bar to do some work in the morning and were surprised to find that we were the only ones there (it’s quite new). One of the best parts about the aesthetic in La Paz is that it is unique and hip without being mundane. There are few traces of the ever popular Scandinavian Minimalist design so popular in the West (and across all the cafes in SE Asia). The almond milk cappuccino was delicious and inspired hope I could give up real milk in my cappuccinos after all.
Google Maps / Not yet on Trip Advisor
2. Ride the Telefericos
A cheap, functional, and beautiful way to see the city, the telefericos impress from above, below, and within. It is priced to be affordable for everyone, so for less than $0.50 USD you can squeeze into an 8 person car with tourists, Bolivianos, and the lovely Cholita women with their top-hats perfectly perched on their heads. The system was efficient, as the telefericos flow through the station like a ferris wheel, slowing but never stopping to allow passengers off and on. The views are breathtaking and the heights sometimes breathtaking as well. We took the red line up the hill to El Alto for the Sunday flea market, starting at Estación Central, but there are several lines to choose from that go all over town.
3. Café Vida
We visited both Café Vida and Cafe del Mundo, two cafes featuring vegan fare and smoothie bowls that are just a stone’s throw from one other. Hands down, Café Vida was the winner. We had a delicious smoothie bowl topped with a toasted granola and three types of fruit and one of the best veggie burgers (quinoa) of the trip, served with fresh kraut, hummus and veggies. We were sad we were only able to make it here once but would definitely recommend a visit, or two. The photo above was taken by our friend Pieter, who is also a big fan.
4. Smoothies and Avocado Sandwiches on the Red Cap Walking Tour
We heard the food and life was cheap in Bolivia and that we could save some money. We also heard that many travelers get sick in Bolivia, which creates quite the conundrum of what to eat. This dilemma led to our extreme delight when the Red Cap Walking Tour brought us to Mercado Lanza, and to the stall of Belen for a multi-fruit ‘multivitamino’ smoothie (10 Bolivianos; $1.25) and the shop next door for an avocado sandwich (5 Bolivianos; $0.75). Both were delicious. So delicious, in fact, we swore we would eat lunch there all four days in La Paz—and we almost did. To find these stalls, enter the market via the second story walking bridge on the east side of the building. Walking straight, pass the electronics stalls on your left and the first section of stalls. Two sections deep, up one of the ramps to the right, you’ll see Belen’s red sign above her shop. And don’t forget the tour; it was great too.
5. Mirador Killi Killi
We walked up to the mirador on our 7th day in Bolivia and 4th day in La Paz, thinking that we would finally be well adjusted to the altitude. That turned out to be incorrect and we ended up spending the rest of the afternoon laying low. That being said, the view shouldn’t be missed. You can take in a nearly 360 degree view of La Paz from the middle of the city, with the snow-capped mountains, dense urban-sprawl, and ascending telefericos in surround. We did not go for sunset but can imagine good things.
Honorable mentions
Ali Pacha: As two vegetarians trying to eat more plant-based, we couldn’t resist having dinner at Ali Pacha, the acclaimed vegetarian restaurant in La Paz. We have enjoyed a few fancy meals around Latin America—at Astrid y Gaston in Lima, and both Biko and Pujol in Mexico City—but none are strictly vegetarian. Ali Pacha was much cheaper than all the aforementioned, coming in around $20 USD for a five-course meal. We enjoyed ourselves (and who wouldn’t for a five-course meal at this price?) but it didn’t blow our socks off.
Cholita Wrestling: This was on all the must-do lists for the city, so we went. And my own fear of missing out, and yours too, is why you’ll probably end up there too. Because where else in the world can you watch Cholita women wrestling? Red Cap Tours takes folks but we found it on our own and paid the 50 Bolivianos admission. You can buy tickets at the door and there’s no need to go early. Overall it was a cheesy, touristy, strange experience. Popcorn is included in the price of admission.
HB Bronze Coffeebar: A beautifully designed coffee shop, serving strong, rich coffee inside. If you’re on the hunt for good coffee in La Paz, and you’ve already been to UMAWI above, you should definitely swing by.
Top 5 Things To Do in La Paz, Bolivia is part of the Just Carrying On – Top 5 Things To Do series, which offers our best travel recommendations from around the world.